“For many wine producers, the most important characteristics they look for from their exclusive global distribution agents is a shared sense of purpose, a synergy of vision, and an ongoing commitment to grow together as wine ranges evolve from one vintage to the next. At Museum Wines, we are fortunate enough to work with some of the top boutique producers in South Africa. Every subsequent visit to these winery partners is another important opportunity to deepen the bond and strengthen the partnership through building knowledge and understanding. Having just returned from another in-depth trip to the Cape Winelands, this week’s Informed Opinion is more of an exploration into the winemakers, personalities, and vinous gems heading to the UK market in the months and years ahead. We hope you will join us on this exciting journey.”
Swerwer Wines
With Museum Wines’ impressive portfolio of premium producers, there will inevitably be a wealth of rich pickings for customers among the range. But with the 2022 wines either in bottle or about to be bottled and the 2023 vintage in barrel looking to be another outstanding vintage for both whites and reds, there is truly a cornucopia of vinous treasures being finessed to the highest possible quality. Picking out some of the highlights of my recent visits, I can’t help but feel that the top Syrah reds from Swartland young gun Jasper Wickens will continue to grow in stature to rival some of the most iconic expressions produced in the Swartland. His 2022 Syrah was still lying in barrel when tasted but is due to be bottled in the coming months, and it’s a real head-turner with an incredibly perfumed and expressive aromatics and a palate texture of silk. Collectors and connoisseurs will not need much encouragement to buy this wine that will certainly improve in the cellar over 8 to 10 years. Jasper has emerged as his own man after a decade of working at AA Badenhorst Family Wines, and the future looks unbelievably exciting.
Brookdale Estate
Another incredibly exciting highlight is the boutique wines from the Brookdale Estate in Paarl. With replanted vineyards starting to mature, there will be some very exciting, limited-release wines coming from winemaker Kiara Scott, a winemaking talent of note that is really getting customers excited. Look out for her new white blend that is still to be named and subsequent follow-up vintages of her high-scoring “Sixteen White Field Blend,” which was an instant sell-out with the maiden 2021 vintage. Of course, the flagship Brookdale Old Vine Chenin Blanc continues to go from strength to strength, with the 2021 vintage a real stand-out wine and one of the true highlights of our recent tastings.
Stark Condé
Another prodigious talent who has genuinely mastered Cabernet Sauvignon and the other red Bordeaux varieties is Rüdger van Wyk at Stark Condé. Already ranked as a “First Growth” in Tim Atkin’s South Africa Classification, the single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah-based wines are eye-wateringly good. Some customers have already had a sneak peek at Stark Conde’s 2019 vintage quality with the Estate blend Cabernet Sauvignon currently on sale, but this is just the tip of the iceberg with their famed Three Pines single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 coming soon as well as their iconic, highly sought-after high-altitude Oude Nektar Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 in bottle, looking truly, world-class. You can expect some very big scores from critics, so get in early and make space in the cellar.
Uva Mira Mountain Vineyards
Moving closer to the False Bay Ocean, visiting the high-altitude vineyards of Uva Mira Mountain Vineyards in the Helderberg is always an astonishing experience where wines are made with an incredibly single-minded attention to detail without any compromise. The cooler, altitude vineyards offer the perfect terroir for cool climate Sauvignon Blanc, outstanding Burgundian-styled Chardonnays, and classically structured but delightfully elegant Cabernet Sauvignon-based reds. Their 2022 Sauvignon Blancs are very special, with their old-world Loire-like mineral precision and a cool, crystalline terroir transparency revealed with every sip. You will not want to enjoy a long, hot European summer without enjoying plenty of both their Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. A pair of notable highlights to watch out for are the Sing-A-Wing Sauvignon Blanc 2022 and the delicious The Mira Chardonnay 2021, from arguably one of the best white wine vintages of the past decade.
Natte Valleij
Most Museum Wines agencies are high-quality and small production wineries which can present their own special challenges when the wines start to sell out quick and quicker. One such producer is Natte Valleij, located in between Stellenbosch and Paarl, winemaker, Alex Milner, utilises some of the best old vine fruit from around the Cape to fashion the most magnificent Cinsault expressions produced anywhere in the world. Alex was pressing his 2023 Cinsault grapes when we dropped in, and again, it’s looking to be a superb vintage for both his Darling and Stellenbosch Cinsault grapes. Other highlights to watch out for are Alex’s incredible Bordeaux Blend reds under the P.O.W. label, representing incredible value for the quality, and his new vintage of the Axle Chenin Blanc that you will not want to miss. Quantities of all his highly sought-after wines are sadly small as usual but well worth the effort to make room for on your drinking rack.
Spioenkop
After suffering a serious car accident after the harvest in April 2022, tasting the new releases with owner/winemaker Koen Roose at his beautiful Elgin property was an especially joyous occasion. Thankfully, Koen was back in top form. This Belgian is often described as an eccentric, a maverick, or a mad genius. Whatever label you want to give him, he is undoubtedly one of the most talented and gifted winemakers in the Cape producing serious styles of white and red that combine his estate’s cool climate terroir characteristics with his own unique winemaking flair. Spioenkop wines always have around 4+ years of bottle ageing before being released, so these wines are always highly anticipated offerings that excel with fine wine collectors and restaurant sommeliers alike. Snap up the last of his fabulous 2017 Pinot Noir and watch out for his high-scoring new release Chenin Blancs, Riesling, and Pinotage. Some of the finest culinary-friendly wines tasted on the entire trip.
Lokaïa, Black Elephant Vintners, and Colmant
Franschhoek has proved to be a very happy hunting ground for Museum Wines. We were very pleased to spend some quality time with almost all our producers there, including Colmant, Black Elephant Vintners, and Lokaia Wines. Paul Gerber led us through a mind-blowing vertical of Colmant Blanc de Blancs wines, starting with their rare maiden vintage of 2006 that personified the quality, longevity, and precision that goes into every bottle of Cap Classique made at Colmant in the traditional method. Along with Cap Classique industry champion Peter Ferreira, Paul Gerber is undoubtedly one of the world’s most respected and talented sparkling wine producers. If you have yet to discover his amazing wines, this Spring in the UK will present the perfect opportunity to indulge in some of Colmant’s incredible bubbles. One to watch out for… the exciting Colmant Rose Brut Cap Classique that will pair with any occasion on offer. For more eclectic offerings of still and sparkling wines, Black Elephant Vintners again pulled a few vinous rabbits out of the hat with a range of wines that offers complexity, quality, and value for money. Watch out for the new release of the Dark Side of the Vine Old Vine Semillon 2019, which will simply knock your socks off. One of the greatest premium expressions of old vine Semillon produced from the late Basil Landau vineyard. Finally, Craig and Clayton, the dynamic winemaking duo of Lokaïa, took us through the new release range, including a stunning Chablis-styled Chardonnay, a crystalline fresh Hunter Valley-styled Semillon, and probably their best Cabernet Franc vintage release yet. All made in amphora to peel back the true terroir of the grapes, these wines are not to be missed.
Holden Manz
The last port of call in the beautiful Franschhoek Valley was the manicured estate of Holden Manz. Well known for their plush fleshy white and red wine styles, there were also some very pleasant surprises with their delicious new Rosé cuvees. But undoubtedly, the highlights of the entire range were once again two of their most famous wines, their Reserve Merlot 2020 and their Reserve Cabernet Franc 2020… both world-class wines made in a focused but assertive fruit-forward style that will appeal to drinkers looking for a bit more depth and breadth on their red wines. Plenty of excitement to come in the months ahead, but it certainly made me think that the last of the exceptional 2019 whites and reds are not to be missed.
Naudé Wines
Finally, no trip to the South African Winelands would be complete without a tasting of some of the finest old vine reds produced in the Cape. Ian Naudé Family Wines needs no introduction, with his wines becoming the most sought-after and allocated releases every year along with Eben Sadie and Chris Alheit. Watch out for Ian’s new releases in the coming months, along with his highly anticipated old vine Cinsault 2017 from Darling, which promises to be his best yet. Look out for release dates and pre-arrival offers as the allocations of the Naudé wines get tighter and tighter as global demand grows, but also be sure not to overlook the new vintages of Ian Naude’s Oupa Willem 2020 Cinsault-based heritage blend as well as his iconic Swartland Grenache 2020 sourced from a treasured vineyard neighbouring Eben Sadie and Adi Badenhorst’s Agter-Paardeberg vineyards. The icing on the cake when tasting with Ian Naudé is always when making a fresh acquaintance with his new vintage of old vine Langpad Colombard white from ancient Vredendal vineyards up the West Coast. The 2022 vintage was certainly a highlight that inspired Ian to produce a new old vine Colombard / Chenin Blanc white blend. But more about this exciting new addition in the months ahead. A trip simply packed with so many incredible wines, colourful characters, and beautiful vineyard visits.
If you find yourself heading to the Cape, please get in touch. We’d love you to meet some of the finest and most passionate winemakers in the Cape!
By Greg Sherwood MW
