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“You’ll get hints of those unctuous salted caramel, toffee apple oaked Chardonnay flavours, but they’re tempered by a pithy citrusy acidity and a purity on the palate which makes it actually quite delicate.
It’s a fascinating wine, which seems to flirt between hedonism and finesse from first drop to last.”
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‘Matured for 12 months, 90% in barrel of which 10% was new, and 10% in terracotta pots. Aromatics of struck-match reduction before lime and lemon plus hints of oatmeal and vanilla. The palate is taut and tense – pure fruit, arresting acidity and a pithy finish. Restrained to the point of severe, this needs at least another 12 months in bottle before showing anywhere near its true potential.’ – Christian Eedes, Winemag, 95/100
| Wine Type | White |
|---|---|
| Country | South Africa |
| Region | Western Cape |
| Subregion | Walker Bay |
| Vintage | 2020 |
| Brand | Restless River |
| Cultivar | Chardonnay |
| Appellation | Walker Bay |
| Bottle Size | 75cl |
| Pack Size | 1x75cl |
| Pack Type | Loose Bottles |
| Alcohol Percentage | 13.00 |
| Duty Status | Duty Paid |
| Availability | Immediate |
| Rating Agencies | Greg Sherwood, JancisRobinson.com, Platter's, Tim Atkin |
Restless River is one of South Africa’s most distinctive and quietly iconic wine producers, nestled in the cool-climate Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. Founded by Craig and Anne Wessels, the estate is known for its fiercely site-specific, small-production wines that express both place and patience. With a philosophy rooted in minimal intervention and long élevage, Restless River has become renowned for its elegant, age-worthy Chardonnay, restrained but complex Cabernet Sauvignon, and more recently, a nuanced Pinot Noir. Each bottle is a thoughtful reflection of the land, crafted with meticulous care and a deep respect for nature’s rhythms.
Moving to biodynamic, they put a real emphasis on soil health. Single 2-ha vineyard, planted in 1999 at 260 m on granite and deep underlying clay, facing south-west. Clones 5 and 55. Spontaneous fermentation, all in 500-litre barrels. Owner-winemaker Craig Wessels aims for Old World burgundian style, apparently. Oxidatively made and lots of gas used when moving from barrel to barrel. Then aged in 10% new oak, 10% amphora, 10% tank and 70% old oak. Very distinctive nose. Great grip on the palate but quite muted – non showy but it should last very well (Dirk Niepoort apparently enjoyed the 2013 recently on a visit!). Very lively – long and throbbing.
The 2019 Ava Marie is a very impressive creation indeed. While many of the earlier vintages were a little more honied and resinous quite early in their evolution, the last few vintages have firmly moved in a direction that favours textural tension and a stonier minerality led by aromatics loaded with smoky, flinty, struck match reduction nuances, waxy lemon peel, wet chalk and subtle oat meal leesy notes. On the palate there is a very keen line of acidity together with an ample, fleshy, yellow citrus fruit freshness that boast layers of pithy yellow grapefruit, lemon cordial, crunchy white peaches and hints of sophisticated wet river pebble liquid minerality. One of Craig s most Burgundian expressions to date, this wine combines fabulous tension with sublime balance.GS
