Restless River, Ava Marie Chardonnay, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, South Africa, 2019

You’ll get hints of those unctuous salted caramel, toffee apple oaked Chardonnay flavours, but they’re tempered by a pithy citrusy acidity and a purity on the palate which makes it actually quite delicate.

It’s a fascinating wine, which seems to flirt between hedonism and finesse from first drop to last.