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Didier Dagueneau, Pur Sang, Pouilly-Fumé, France, 2019
Legndary winemaker Didier Dagueneau was affectionately referred to as the ‘Wild man of Pouilly’ not only because of his looks but because his ideas seemed simply ludicrous at the time. He halved his yields and began tilling his vineyards by horse instead of tractor. He paid scrupulous attention to detail at every stage, from vineyard management (biodynamic since 1993) to winemaking processes in the cellar. He redeemed the reputation of Pouilly-Fumé and became one of the greatest winemakers of his generation. It was one of the biggest blows to the wine trade when he died in a tragic accident in 2008. However Didier’s name lives on as the domaine is now led by his son Benjamin and daughter Charlotte. They continue the Dagueneau philosophy and consistently produce wines that are as pure, intense and otherworldly as their father’s.
Pur Sang is 100% Sauvignon Blanc from a single silex clay-rich parcel in Saint-Laurent. Of the Dagueneau range it is the most powerful and hedonistic. Like great Burgundy these wines can be austere in youth but they come to life with several years of bottle age. The 2018 is bold and intense with wonderfully rich notes of gooseberry, white peach, tarragon and chamomile.
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